There are train rides, and then there is the Bernina Express. As the highest railway across the Alps, this UNESCO World Heritage route isn’t just a way to get from Italy to Switzerland—it is a slow-motion immersion into some of the most breathtaking landscapes on Earth.
Crossing 196 bridges and 55 tunnels, the “Red Train” climbs from the palm trees of Tirano to the glittering glaciers of the Bernina Pass. In this Bernina Express guide, we’ll break down exactly how to book the panoramic carriages, where to sit for the best views, and how to turn this legendary route into a seamless luxury day trip from Lake Como or Milan in 2026.
📂 Bernina Express Guide: Table of Contents ▼
🚂 Bernina Express: Essential 2026 Data
- 📍 Departure Point: Tirano, Italy (reachable by train from Milan/Varenna).
- 🏔️ The High Point: Ospizio Bernina (2,253 meters above sea level).
- 🎫 Booking Tip: You must book seat reservations for the Panoramic Coaches separately from your ticket. These sell out months in advance!
👉 Book All-in-One Luxury Bernina Tour - 📸 Best Side to Sit: On the way from Tirano to St. Moritz, sit on the RIGHT side for the best views of the Brusio Spiral Viaduct.
🎢 The Brusio Spiral: A Marvel of Engineering
Shortly after leaving Tirano, the train crosses the border and immediately hits the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. This isn’t just a photo op; it’s a solution to a massive problem. To climb the steep Alpine incline without a rack-and-pinion system, the train has to “loop” to gain elevation in a very tight space.
- Pro Tip (The “Quiet” Window): If you are in the panoramic carriage, you’ll have a slight reflection in your photos. To get that crystal-clear shot of the train curving, head to the platform between the carriages. There is often a small window there that you can lower or see through more clearly.
- The Best Seat: On the way away from Tirano (heading North), sit on the Left Side for the best view of the viaduct as you approach it.
🏔️ Alp Grüm: The Glacier Viewpoint
Alp Grüm is where the “Route” truly meets the “Stay” philosophy. Located at 2,091 meters, this station is only accessible by train or by a long hike. The train usually stops here for about 5–10 minutes to allow passengers to stretch their legs.
- The 360° View: Walk past the station building to the edge of the terrace. From here, you can see the Palü Glacier to your right and the Poschiavo Valley (the way you just came) thousands of feet below to your left.
- The 2026 Secret: If you have time, don’t just pass through. You can actually stay at the Albergo Ristorante Alp Grüm—a hotel built into the train station itself. Watching the last train leave and having the glacier to yourself under the stars is the definition of “Hidden Gem” luxury.
💎 St. Moritz: The Ultimate “Stay” Destination
St. Moritz isn’t just a town; it’s a lifestyle. It has hosted the Winter Olympics twice and is the birthplace of Alpine winter tourism.
The Culinary Route: If you’re a foodie, visit Hatecke. It’s a high-end, designer butcher shop/bistro that serves the best “Bündnerfleisch” (air-dried beef) in the Engadin valley. It’s exactly the kind of chic, local spot your readers will appreciate knowing about.
Beyond the Hotels: While Badrutt’s Palace is the icon, take a walk through the Via Serlas. It is the highest shopping street in the world, featuring every luxury brand from Chanel to Hermès.
Lake St. Moritz Walk: In the summer of 2026, the walk around the lake is a must. It takes about an hour and provides the “Postcard View” of the town reflecting in the water.
🎒 The Bernina Packing List: Surviving a 20°C Temperature Drop
The most common mistake travelers make on the Bernina Express is dressing for the palm trees of Tirano and forgetting they are heading to a glacier. In 2026, the temperature difference between the start and end of the route can be as much as 20°C (36°F).
🧥 The “Swiss Onion” Strategy (Layering)
- The Base: Start with a light, breathable shirt for the Mediterranean heat in Tirano.
- The Mid-Layer: Bring a high-quality fleece or a light cashmere wrap. Even if the sun is shining, the air-conditioned panoramic carriages can feel chilly, and the mountain stations are crisp.
- The Outer Shell: A compact, windproof/waterproof jacket is essential for the 10-minute photo stop at Alp Grüm.
📸 Gear & Tech Essentials
- Polarized Sunglasses: The glare from the Morteratsch Glacier and high-altitude snow is intense, even on cloudy days.
- Power Bank: While 2026 carriages have USB ports, they can be slow. Between 4K video of the Landwasser Viaduct and GPS tracking, your battery will drain faster than you think.
- Lens Cloth: If you are in the panoramic cars, you’ll be shooting through glass. A quick wipe-down of your window area before the Brusio Spiral will save your photos.
🥪 The “Train Picnic” Upgrade
While there is a minibar trolley on board with Swiss chocolates and drinks, the selection is limited.
- Local Treats: Before boarding in Tirano, stop at a local alimentari for fresh Valtellina bresaola, cheese, and a bottle of Sforzato wine.
- Reusable Water Bottle: Swiss tap water is some of the best in the world. Fill up at the station before you climb into the Alps.
✨ First Class vs. Second Class: Which to Choose?
Deciding between classes on the Bernina Express comes down to how much “breathing room” you want for your luxury experience. In 2026, both classes feature the signature floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows and free Wi-Fi, but the experience differs:
- First Class (2+1 Seating): The most exclusive feel. With only 3 seats across, you get wider leather chairs and significantly more legroom. This is the best choice for couples who want a window and aisle seat to themselves.
- Second Class (2+2 Seating): Perfectly comfortable but more crowded. You will likely be sharing your table of four with other travelers.
🎫 How to Book (The 2026 Process)
Booking the Bernina Express in 2026 requires two separate steps. You cannot board with just a reservation; you need a valid ticket as well.
- The Seat Reservation: This is mandatory for the panoramic carriages. Book this up to 6 months in advance. In 2026, fees are approx. CHF 32–36 depending on the season.
- The Travel Ticket: This is the actual fare. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, your fare is 100% covered! You simply show your pass and your seat reservation to the conductor.
💡 Route & Stay Expert Tip:
If you plan on taking even one other train or boat in Switzerland (like a Lake Lugano cruise), the Swiss Travel Pass pays for itself. It covers the Bernina Express fare, all public transport, and entry to over 500 museums.
Get the Official Swiss Travel Pass here →❓ Bernina Express: Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a passport for the Bernina Express?Yes. Because you are crossing the international border between Italy (Tirano) and Switzerland (St. Moritz), you must carry a valid passport or national ID card. A driver’s license is not a valid travel document for this border crossing.
Is there food on the Bernina Express?There is no full-service restaurant car on the train. However, a “minibar” trolley passes through the carriages serving Swiss chocolates, snacks, wine, and coffee. For a luxury experience, I recommend packing a gourmet Italian picnic from a deli in Tirano before you board.
Is the Bernina Express included in the Swiss Travel Pass?Yes! The ticket price is 100% covered by the Swiss Travel Pass, Eurail, and Interrail. However, you must still pay for a mandatory seat reservation (approx. CHF 32–36) if you want to sit in the panoramic carriages.
Can I bring luggage on board?Yes, there are luggage racks at the end of each carriage and space between the seat backs for smaller bags. However, space is limited in the panoramic cars, so try to travel light if possible. In 2026, many travelers use the “Station-to-Station” luggage service to have their bags meet them at their hotel.
Are dogs allowed on the train?Yes! Small dogs (up to 30cm) in a carrier travel for free. Larger dogs require a half-fare ticket. Just remember that your dog also needs its “Pet Passport” and proof of rabies vaccination for the border crossing.